Instructions:
Before
sewing smocks for the smockshop, the first thing that we recommend
is that you sew a smock or two for yourself. This way you can test
out the pattern and function of the design. Patterns can be acquired
at the smockshop, and smock sewing demos generally happen in the
shop right after Friday reviews.
Common oversights:
1.
Pre wash all fabrics! Do tests to makes sure that dark colors don't
bleed onto light ones.
2. Remember to press your seams with an iron after sewing. Make
sure corners are crisp.
3. Check to make sure that the finished smock is clean.
4. Check fasteners and accessories. Don't forget that the smocks
must be totally wearable.
5. If you use thin or see-through fabrics they should be lined.
Steps:
1.
Start with 2.5 yards of fabric. Fold your fabric in half so that
the cut edges of the fabric meet at the end and the selvedges are
on the sides. Pin pattern so that the tops of the shoulder straps
touch the top fold. Cut out carefully.
*You can cut two pieces of fabric (one at a time) and sew them back
to back so that one is a lining - or you can hem the edges as follows
2. Evenly fold the raw edges over 3/8” and iron, then fold
another 3/8” and iron again. Pin so that they stay folded
while you hem.
3.
If you are a beginning sewer you may want to hand stitch your edges
since it takes a lot of time and practice to make clean machine
stitched hems. (we think that slightly “unprofessional”
hand sewing usually looks better then sloppy machine sewing) Use
several strands of embroidery floss in either matching or contrasting
color and stitch with an evenly spaced running stitch. In order
to keep the overall appearance clean you can try to hide the knots
inside the hem.
If
you are going to machine stitch you will probably want to sew from
the back side so that you can follow the edge of your hem as closely
as possible. Make sure that the thread color showing on the front
of the smock is as you want it. Make sure that your tension is properly
adjusted. Make sure that your pinned hem is straight, because if
you follow it, your stitched line will only be as straight as your
folded one.
Start edging along the lower hem (so that the start and stop of
the hem is less noticeable.) sew at a slow speed and carefully stitch
about 1/8 of an inch from the fold line of your hem. When you come
to a corner plant the needle (downwards) into the corner at a good
turning point to hold it in place, lift the foot lever up, and swing
the fabric around orienting it in the new direction, then start
carefully stitching again.
After you have edged the entire smock trace over the beginning seam
about 1” and then end the seam – pull threads through
to back of smock and trim.
If
you are sewing a lined smocks sew the fabrics together face to face
- pinning carefully to make sure that everything meets up. Trim
corners and slit curves slightly. Turn right side out through neck
and use a pin to pull corners out so that they make crisp angles.
4. The smocks can be fasted many ways. We recommend adjustable straps
or ties if you want them to be multi sized. Tiprin puts grommets
in the corner of her smocks and ties them with a ribbon. Andrea
likes hooks and "d" rings.
5. Hemming the neck is a controversial subject at the smockshop!
You can either leave the neck raw, or figure out some creative way
of negotiating it.
6. Customize -This is the best part of sewing your smock –
figuring out how to make it yours! Pockets, Embroidery, patches,
silkscreen, airbrush, appliqué, pins, dyes, paints, ribbons….
*Here
is a printable PDF to make it easier to plan your own smock details.
Fabric
stores and other resources:
Lisa
recommends Mood Fabrics. It's on Pico @ La Cienega, right near the
Pearl Paint... "I was really impressed by their selection of
wools and wool blends, great for wintry smocks. Some really nice
colors and patterns in wool, which I've not had luck finding before
in LA."
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